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Malaga

Málaga is the major coastal city of Andalucía and is a genuine and typical Andaluz city with a gritty individualism untouched by tourism and, to a large extent, the passage of time.

The Alcazaba The illustrious past has left its imprint on the historic centre, particularly around the Alcazaba, a fortress which dates back to 1065 and is now a fascinating archaeological museum. One can reach this by walking from the bullring, along the Paseo del Parque a botanical garden of palms, borgainvillea and exotic shrubs and past the Neo-Baroque town hall built in 1911.

The Moors occupied the city until the mid fifteenth century, after which it grew to become one of the foremost merchant centres in the entire Iberian Peninsula. 

Just outside the Alcazaba is a Roman theatre, excavated in the early 1950s and the only visible Roman structure left in the city. It was built during the rule of Agustus and then abandoned in the 3rd century.  Nothing remains of its rich marble structure but it gives us some indication of its past glory.  Despite its small size it is one of the most important in Spain. Currently under conservation.  

castillo de Gibralfaro Also worth a visit is the nearby castle which was rebuilt by the Moors and is today a traditional parador (state hotel). The Gibralfaro is a fortified stronghold.  Dominating the city from the top of the hill (130 metres).  Its history goes back hundreds of years.  Burial ground and other remains such as jewellery show that it is almost certain that there once stood an ancient prehistoric fortified village here, before Roman times and has been ascertained that a lighthouse once stood here during the Roman reign. 

The name Gibralfaro is taken from the arab words JABAL FARUK, which means hill of the light house.  The first mention of the castle of JABUL FARUK is in the second half of the 8th century.  And later further alterations were made at the beginning of the 14th century by the Emir Yusuf.  During that time the Mediterrenean basin was subject to constant pirate raids and today only a few features of the original buidings remain, however it is worth visiting for the fantastic views of the city.  

We also have views of the Alcazaba, castle on the outside and palace on the inside, which was constructed in the 11th century.  (Some experts also believe this to date back to Roman times) It was built by King Badis, who was one of the Zuri of Granada, when Málaga became an independent kingdom. The Alcazaba together with the Gibalfaro is one of the most important Islamic military constructions in Spain.

The Cathedral As with many of the places of worship in Andalucía was built upon the site of a fomer Mosque, and is still unfinished! 

Given the name of La Manquita, the one armed lady, due to the fact that money ran out in 1782 and as a result the Cathedral only has one tower.  Despite this it has been declared a National monument. Inside, the altar is made of Italian marble, with agate columns, and the intricate 17th century choir stall was carved by Pedro de Mena, one of Andalucías best known craftsmen of the time.

 

During the 19th century, Málaga was a popular winter resort for the wealthy and famed for its elegance and sophistication. The impressive park on Calle Alameda dates back to this era and is recognised as being one of the most celebrated botanical collections in Europe. During the winter, open air concerts are held here every Sunday which makes a refreshing change from the bucket and spade scenario on the coast.

ALAMEDA PRINCIPAL   The central market, known as the MERCADO ATARAZANAS, was built in the 19th century on the site of what was once an Islamic ship building and repair yard, which is where it takes its name from.  The main entrance is still that of the original arch which dates back to the 13th century. There is an inscription  engraved in the archway which means “God alone is the Victor”

The market is divided into 3 sections, fish, meat and fruit and vegetables.  One can see the pride that the stall holders take in displaying their goods.  Shopping there is always a pleasure, and quite often by the time you have looked around and got back to where you started the prices have changed.

THE OLD GUARDS STATION Málagas oldest tavern, which was once a guards house.  Here you can find all the local sherry type wines.  All served from their barrels that are behind the counter.

CenacheroEL CENACHERO, the statue of a 15th century fisherman selling his wares, as he would have in days gone by, from the baskets that would either have been carried on his shoulders or tied to his elbow. The name is given after the baskets for the fish.  This statue is just one of Málagas symbols.

Málagas port is the second largest cruise liner port in Spain, with liners from all over the Meditteranean as well as America.  Since the first settlers came to Málaga, its port has always played a key role in its ecomony.

This entire area of the city is the result of an ambicious urban redevelopment scheme, in which land, which previously belonged to the coastline was recovered in 1897. Recently the port has been extended with more land reclaimed from the sea.  From here there is a splendid view of the Castillo de Gibralfaro (taken after the name of the hill it stands) and the Alcazaba, royal palace.   We can appreciate from this angle the curtain wall that joins the Castle of the Gibralfaro to the Alcazaba, in ancient times it was connected by an underground tunnel, but today the pass does not exist.   

All that and so much more to see, and that is only the start.  The towns and villages that spread out from the provinces capital are all charming, full of life and tradition and each with thier own personality. 

torremolinos the first resort west of Málaga airport is a resort for the young and lively, with two vast expanses of beach dedicated to sun worshippers and neon-lit streets that throng with life.  

Torre de los Molinos, the tower of the windmills, is recorded on a map as early as 1748, when the village was surrounded by 17 flour mills, powered by three streams flowing into the Mediterranean at El Bajondillo beach.  The torre itself is an even earlier Moorish watchtower and can still be seen at the end of Calle San Miguel.

Calle San Miguel today is a riot of bars, pubs, restaurants and souvenir shops and leads to a flight of steps descending to the beaches of La Carihuela and  Bajondillo, divided into a rocky promontory.  La Carihuela, the original fishing village that used to serve Málaga, still bears traces of its humbles past and ancient fishermen can be spotted here in the morning, grilling wooden skewers of silvery sardines over open fires on the beach.

Despite its large transient population, Torremolinos has some 30,000 permanent inhabitants who turn out in style each September for a spectacular romeria in honour of San Miguel, the towns patron saint.  A colourful parade of ox-drawn gypsy caravans, beautiful Andalucían horse and flamenco dancers weaves through the streets to the pine forest behind the town for a night of barbecues, paella cooking, fino drinking and dancing.

benalmadena somewhat tamer than its neighbour, Torremolinos, Benamadena forms three separate areas: the big strip of hotels along the coast and around the new puerto; the Arroyo de la Miel, a lively suburb packed with bars, restaurants and shops; and Benalmadena Pueblo, the original village set back from the coast in the hills.

Approximately 20,000 people inhabit this area and Benalmadena is filled with life throughout the year.  In summer, the village provides a cool refuge from the hectic pace of the coast, its steep, narrow alleys leading to tiny squares, balconies bursting with geranuims.   The main square, Plaza de España, contains the statue that has become the emblem of Benalmadena - a young girl offering water in an upturned shell.  A small municipal museum contains artefacts from the bronze and middle ages which have been found locally.  There is a magnificent view of the coast from the tiny church at the top of the village, including a somewhat incongruous fairytale castle below.

Benalmadenas new port, fast becoming one of the most chic along the coast with its restaurants, shops, and cocktail bars is lively at night and has a small aquarium to visit.  Children will also enjoy Tivoli World in the Arroyo, a permanent amusement park with gardens, fountains, restaurants and bars as well as rides.

Mijas is a typical Andalusian hill village which stretches out along the slopes of Sierra de Mijas, the long moutainous chain which dominates the village below.  It is surrounded by verdant dense pine forests whose balmy perfumes permeate through the hillside air.  The locality has become the favourite haunt for artists and foriegn visitors who come here to enjoy this natural beauty spot, with its splendid green countryside, its breathtaking mountain scenery and enchanting views over the azure-blue waters of the Mediterranean and the  peaks of the Sierra de Mijas.

The history of Mijas, like many other localities in this part of the Andalusian province, can be traced back to the eras of Phoenician and Roman colonization.  Its rich sub-soil - precious quantities of building marble were once mined in the district - constituted one of the many attractions of the area.  During the period of Arab domain, the locality belonged, for a time, to the rebels of Omar-Ben-Hafsún. 

The urban lay out of the village is a noteworthy feature, particularly in the oldest part of the village: the picturesque white houses look out over the narrow lanes where local artisans sell their products to tourists and passers by.  Here, life can still be enjoyed at a leisurely pace and there is a marked absence of traffic and cars: in fact, the more lazy tourists and children are given the unique opportunity of visiting the village on donkeys.  These charming animals are known locally as Burro Taxis and, decked out in their multi-coloured harnesses, they make up one of the most characteristic features of the village.  Some 17th and 18th century churches and chapels represent further interesting features of the village - which also has an unusual rectangular shaped Plaza de Toros.  The most famous of these is the Sanctuary de  la Virgin de la Peña which was carved out of the rock by the monks in 1520. This atmospheric grotto, which is still visited by pilgrims and sightseers, contains the venerated effigy of the Virgen de la Peña, patron saint of the village.

Nerja Yet another town with Islamic origin.  Lying at the foot of the Sierra de Almijara. Nerja is a bustling and easy going place with a more infomal feel than the neon and glitz of its western counterparts.  The name Nerja comes from the Moorish word Naricha, meaning "rich in water" and the town is surrounded by peach and pomegranate groves.  Nerjas most famous attraction is the Balcon de Europa, a short, palm-lined promenade jutting out over a couple of small coves, with sweeping views of the coast in either direction.

  THE CAVES AT NERJA One of the most interesting tourist attractions of the Costa del Sol.

These caves were discovered by sheer coincidence.  A series of vast caverns which were discovered in 1959 and are now a National Monument.  There are almost 5,000 metres of walkways, only a third is open to the public as excavation work and examination of the caves is still in progress.  Here we can find the worlds largest stalagtite and the wall paintings found here are thought to be around 20,000 years old.  During the summer months concerts and ballets are held here in one of the chambers as the accustics are excellent.  It is really amazing to think that these caves were once inhabited by small civilizations.

Marbella Literally meaning the beautiful sea, stretches out like a shining jewel along the western part of the Costa del Sol, in front of a bay whose crystal clear waters have conferred a sense of timeless beauty upon this Mediterranean resort.

Even if this lovely Andalusían coastal town conjures up one of the most stereotyped images of a tourist resort, it should be pointed out that Marbella is a class resort above other resorts in Spain and beyond.  Situated between the open sea and the Sierra Blanca, Marbella has an excellent Mediterrenean climate which not only fosters the growth of green and luxuriant flora but more importantly, encourages tourists and visitors to spend long holidays in this fabulous environment.  First class accomodation facilities, three harbours for pleasure boats and yachts, an infinate variety of sports facilities (including a large number of excellent gof courses) as well as the local bars, discoteques and the tasty local cuisine all contribute to make Marbella one of the best tourist resorts in modern Spain.

The vast coastal front of Marbella stretches for about 28 kilometres, between Cabopino and Puerto Banús, the splendid beaches of fine golden sand which slope gently down to the sea.

The urban layout of Marbella blends the typical characteristics of Andalusían towns, with the salient features of tourist facilities built here during the 1970's and the 1980's, such as the holiday villages, luxury hotels and apartments.  This mixture of architectural styles produces a pleasing effect upon the eye - a magical setting whose effect is heightened by the turquiose waters of the sea, its green gardens, and an abundence of palm trees and the stern yet protective outline of the Sierra Blanca.

Among the features of particular interest to tourists as the Villa de Río Verde, an important example of Roman architecture which contains a beautiful mosaic floor, the ruins of the town walls, dating back to the time of the Arab domination and the ruins of the castle (dating back to the same period), which has round corner towers, walls and turreted towers.  The simple elegance of the Plaza de los Naranjos which contains a beautiful fountain, is another noteworthy feature of the town.  The plaza is lined with dazzling white buildings, (including the 16th century Town Hall, whose Chapter house contains a Mudéjar ceiling), and has numerous orange trees dotted around it.  There is also a small well laid out Civic Museum which contains exhibits dating back to the Neolithic era, Roman artifacts found in the centres and villas around the district and pieces dating back to Visigoth and Arab periods.  The museum also contains works by contempory artists.  Also to be seen in the town are some 16th century buildings.

The first settlements in the area date back to the Palaeolithic era, although the locality did not become a thriving town in its own right until the time of the Roman domination, after having previously been inhabited by the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks and seamen from all corners of the globe.  Close to the site of the present day town, the Romans founded the centres of Salduba and Silniana; under Arab domination the location became an important military and defensive stronghold.  Later in 1485, under the rule of the Catholic Kings, Marbella regained its status as a town.  The origins of its modern development can be traced back to the 18th and 19th century when the town developed steadily as a result of considerable mineral resources mined at the nearby Sierra Blanca.  In more recent times, the decline of its mining and iron and steel industries has been counter balanced by a rapid growth in tourism and its related industries.

the white towns  Mountain roads in the Serrania de Ronda are well sign posted and in reasonable condition but in order to make the most of your day out, try not to be too over ambicious with your distances.  Spend some of the time on foot instead, trying short hikes and exploring the villages.

Much of the hiking country in this area is designated nature reserve and permits are needed from the Agencia de Medio Ambiente to walk here.  Permits can be picked up in Grazalema.

Scenic Drive 1: Ronda-Cueva de la Pilata-Gaucin-Casares-Manilva:  This route covers the eastern Serrania de Ronda with a detour to see the prehistroric rock paintings in the Cueva de la Pileta.  Drive through Ronda and take the turn-off to Benoján and from there, follow the signs to the cave.  Inside the cave are primitive rock paintings of animals that roamed this area in 25,000BC, made all the more atmospheric by the fact that there is no lighting and the one hour tour is conducted by lantern.

Continue south to Jimena de Libár, a village overlooked by the remains of a Moorish castle.  At the junction with the C341, turn right and follow the signs for Gaucín, 19km away.  Gaucín is one of the most beautiful of the White Towns, spilling over the saddle of a hill dominated by a Moorish fortress.  The views down over the coastal plain to Gibraltar a2nd Morroco are breathtaking.  While there is little of historic interest in the town, it is a pleasant place to wander round and to stop in for a drink.

At the western end of the village, an unnumbered road slopes steeply downward, the left fork leading to Casares, another immaculate pueblo suspended from a hillside beneath its castle.  Casares allegedly takes its name from Julius Ceasar, who used to favour the sulphuric springs down the mountainside outside Manilva.  The spa is ruined now but the strange smelling water continues to gush out.

Scenic Drive 2: Ronda-Grazalema-Zahara de la Sierra- Ronda: Take the C339 from the coast road just beyond Marbella and follow the signs to Ronda, a spectacular drive which takes about an hour.  Cross through Ronda and continue on the C344 until the left turn to Grazalema, a futher 13km.

Grazalema is a sleepy, little village that appears to be suspended from a sheer cliff face in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Parque Natural.  Grazalema is the wettest spot in Spain, the mountains trapping cool air from the sea, and it is this high altitude combined with frequent rainfall that sustains the rare pinsapo fir, a tree which grows only in this area.

Many people use Grazalema as a starting point for their hikes in the pinsapo forests and the sun-dappled cork oak woods.  The village's main square is usually busy with walkers and old people sitting under the shade of maple trees to observe the scene.  The village is also famous for its hand woven blankets and a couple of shops around the square sell the soft woollen products of a small factory outside the town.  In the peaceful back streets, colourful window boxes provide a contrast against the white walls; restaurantes serve local specialities like wild trout stuffed with mountain ham, and onion soup with cheese and walnuts.

From Grazalema, continue up through the valley to turn off for the CA531, signposted Zahara and Puerto de las Palomas.  This breathtakind mountain pass is one of the highest in Andalucía and weaves its way up the side of a sheer rock face through the pinsapo forest.  The views from the top at 1350m are awe-inspiring, rugged mountains with green, wooded valleys in between them and dusty, golden fields rolling away on the plain to the western horizon.  Golden eagles and griffon vultures wheel overhead.  A trail in the left marks the beginning of the Itinerario del Pinsapar, the walking path through the pinsapo forest.  With a permit it is possible follow the path for an hour or so, although the full length of the trail takes four hours and ends in nearby Benamahoma.

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