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Málaga
is the major coastal city of Andalucía and is a genuine and typical Andaluz city
with a gritty individualism untouched by tourism and, to a large extent, the
passage of time.
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The
Alcazaba The illustrious past has left its imprint on the historic centre, particularly
around the Alcazaba, a fortress which dates back to 1065 and is now a fascinating
archaeological museum. One can reach this by walking from the bullring, along
the Paseo del Parque a botanical garden of palms, borgainvillea and exotic
shrubs and past the Neo-Baroque town hall built in 1911. |
The
Moors occupied the city until the mid fifteenth century, after which it grew to
become one of the foremost merchant centres in the entire Iberian Peninsula.
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Just outside the
Alcazaba is a Roman theatre, excavated in the early 1950s and the only visible
Roman structure left in the city. It
was built
during the rule of Agustus and then abandoned in the 3rd century.
Nothing remains of its rich marble structure but it gives us some
indication of its past
glory. Despite its small size it is one of the most important in Spain.
Currently under conservation.
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castillo
de Gibralfaro
Also worth a visit is the nearby castle which was rebuilt by the Moors and is today a
traditional parador (state hotel).
The
Gibralfaro is a fortified stronghold.
Dominating the city from the top
of the hill (130 metres).
Its history goes back hundreds of years.
Burial ground and other remains such as jewellery show that it is almost
certain that there once stood an ancient prehistoric fortified village here,
before Roman times and has been ascertained that a lighthouse once stood here
during the Roman reign.
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The
name Gibralfaro is taken from the arab words JABAL FARUK, which means hill
of the light house.
The first mention of the castle of JABUL FARUK is in the second half of
the 8th century.
And later further alterations were made at the beginning of the 14th
century by the Emir Yusuf.
During that time the Mediterrenean basin was subject to constant pirate
raids and today only a few features of the original buidings remain,
however it is worth visiting for the fantastic views of the city.
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We
also have views of the Alcazaba, castle on the outside and palace on the inside,
which was constructed in the 11th century.
(Some experts also believe this to date back to Roman times) It was built
by King Badis, who was one of the Zuri of Granada, when Málaga became an
independent kingdom. The Alcazaba together with the Gibalfaro is one of the most
important Islamic military constructions in Spain.
The
Cathedral As with
many of the places of worship in Andalucía was built upon the site of a fomer Mosque, and is still
unfinished!
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Given the name of
La Manquita, the one
armed lady, due to the fact that money ran out in 1782 and as a result the
Cathedral only has one tower. Despite this it has been declared a National
monument. Inside, the altar is made of Italian marble, with agate columns, and
the intricate 17th century choir stall was carved by Pedro de Mena, one of
Andalucías best known craftsmen of the time. |
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During the
19th century, Málaga was a popular winter resort for the wealthy and famed for
its elegance and sophistication. The impressive park on Calle Alameda dates back
to this era and is recognised as being one of the most celebrated botanical
collections in Europe. During the winter, open air concerts are held here every
Sunday which makes a refreshing change from the bucket and spade scenario on the
coast.
ALAMEDA
PRINCIPAL
The central market, known as the MERCADO ATARAZANAS, was built in the 19th
century on the site of what was once an Islamic ship building and repair
yard, which is where it takes its name from. The
main entrance is still that of the original arch which dates back to the 13th
century. There is an inscription engraved
in the archway which means “God alone is the Victor”
The
market is divided into 3 sections, fish, meat and fruit and vegetables.
One can see the pride that the stall holders take in displaying their
goods. Shopping there is always a pleasure, and quite often by the
time you have looked around and got back to where you started the prices have
changed.
THE
OLD GUARDS STATION
Málagas
oldest tavern, which was once a guards house.
Here you can find all the local sherry type wines.
All served from their barrels that are behind the counter.
EL
CENACHERO, the statue of a 15th century fisherman selling his wares,
as he would have in days gone by, from the baskets that would either have been
carried on his shoulders or tied to his elbow. The name is given after the
baskets for the fish. This statue
is just one of Málagas symbols.
Málagas
port is the second largest cruise liner port in Spain, with liners from all over
the Meditteranean as well as America. Since
the first settlers came to Málaga, its port has always played a key role in
its ecomony.
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This
entire area of the city is the result of an ambicious urban redevelopment
scheme, in which land, which previously belonged to the coastline was
recovered in 1897.
Recently the port has been
extended with more land reclaimed from the sea.
From here there is
a splendid view of the Castillo de Gibralfaro (taken after the name of the
hill it stands) and the Alcazaba, royal palace.
We can appreciate from this angle the curtain wall that joins the
Castle of the Gibralfaro to the Alcazaba, in ancient times it was
connected by an underground tunnel, but today the pass does not exist.
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All
that and so much more to see, and that is only the start. The towns and
villages that spread out from the provinces capital
are all charming, full of
life and tradition and each with thier
own personality.

torremolinos
the
first resort west of Málaga airport is a resort for the young and lively, with
two vast expanses of beach dedicated to sun worshippers and neon-lit streets
that throng with life.
Torre
de los Molinos, the tower of the windmills, is recorded on a map as early as
1748, when the village was surrounded by 17 flour mills, powered by three
streams flowing into the Mediterranean at El Bajondillo beach. The torre
itself is an even earlier Moorish watchtower and can still be seen at the end of
Calle San Miguel.
Calle
San Miguel today is a riot of bars, pubs, restaurants and souvenir shops and
leads to a flight of steps descending to the beaches of La Carihuela and
Bajondillo, divided into a rocky promontory. La Carihuela, the original
fishing village that used to serve Málaga, still bears traces of its humbles
past and ancient fishermen can be spotted here in the morning, grilling wooden
skewers of silvery sardines over open fires on the beach.
Despite
its large transient population, Torremolinos has some 30,000 permanent
inhabitants who turn out in style each September for a spectacular romeria in
honour of San Miguel, the towns patron saint. A colourful parade of ox-drawn
gypsy caravans, beautiful Andalucían horse and flamenco dancers weaves through
the streets to the pine forest behind the town for a night of barbecues, paella
cooking, fino drinking and dancing.
benalmadena
somewhat
tamer than its neighbour, Torremolinos, Benamadena forms three separate areas:
the big strip of hotels along the coast and around the new puerto; the Arroyo de
la Miel, a lively suburb packed with bars, restaurants and shops; and
Benalmadena Pueblo, the original village set back from the coast in the hills.
Approximately
20,000 people inhabit this area and Benalmadena is filled with life throughout
the year. In summer, the village provides a cool refuge from the hectic
pace of the coast, its steep, narrow alleys leading to tiny squares, balconies
bursting with geranuims. The main square, Plaza de España, contains
the statue that has become the emblem of Benalmadena - a young girl offering
water in an upturned shell. A small municipal museum contains artefacts
from the bronze and middle ages which have been found locally. There is a
magnificent view of the coast from the tiny church at the top of the village,
including a somewhat incongruous fairytale castle below.
Benalmadenas
new port, fast becoming one of the most chic along the coast with its
restaurants, shops, and cocktail bars is lively at night and has a small
aquarium to visit. Children will also enjoy Tivoli World in the Arroyo, a
permanent amusement park with gardens, fountains, restaurants and bars as well
as rides.
Mijas
is
a typical Andalusian hill village which stretches out along the slopes of Sierra
de Mijas, the long moutainous chain which dominates the village below. It is
surrounded by verdant dense pine forests whose balmy perfumes permeate through
the hillside air. The locality has become the favourite haunt for artists
and foriegn visitors who come here to enjoy this natural beauty spot, with its
splendid green countryside, its breathtaking mountain scenery and enchanting
views over the azure-blue waters of the Mediterranean and the peaks
of the Sierra de Mijas.
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The
history of Mijas, like many other localities in this part of the Andalusian
province, can be traced back to the eras of Phoenician and Roman colonization.
Its rich sub-soil - precious quantities of building marble were once mined in
the district - constituted one of the many attractions of the area. During
the period of Arab domain, the locality belonged, for a time, to the rebels of
Omar-Ben-Hafsún.
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The
urban lay out of the village is a noteworthy feature, particularly in the oldest
part of the village: the picturesque white houses look out over the narrow lanes
where local artisans sell their products to tourists and passers by. Here,
life can still be enjoyed at a leisurely pace and there is a marked absence of
traffic and cars: in fact, the more lazy tourists and children are given the
unique opportunity of visiting the village on donkeys. These charming
animals are known locally as Burro Taxis and, decked out in their multi-coloured
harnesses, they make up one of the most characteristic features of the village.
Some 17th and 18th century churches and chapels represent further interesting
features of the village - which also has an unusual rectangular shaped Plaza de
Toros. The most famous of these is the Sanctuary de la Virgin de la
Peña which was carved out of the rock by the monks in 1520. This atmospheric
grotto, which is still visited by pilgrims and sightseers, contains the
venerated effigy of the Virgen de la Peña, patron saint of the village.
Nerja
Yet
another town with Islamic origin. Lying at the foot of the Sierra de
Almijara. Nerja is a bustling and easy going place with a more infomal feel than
the neon and glitz of its western counterparts. The name Nerja comes from
the Moorish word Naricha, meaning "rich in water" and the town is
surrounded by peach and pomegranate groves. Nerjas most famous attraction
is the Balcon de Europa, a short, palm-lined promenade jutting out over a couple
of small coves, with sweeping views of the coast in either direction.
THE CAVES
AT NERJA
One
of the most interesting tourist attractions of the Costa del Sol.
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These
caves were discovered by sheer coincidence. A series of vast caverns
which were discovered in 1959 and are now a National Monument. There
are almost 5,000 metres of walkways, only a third is open to the public
as excavation work and examination of the caves is still in progress.
Here we can find the worlds largest stalagtite and the wall paintings
found here are thought to be around 20,000 years old. During the
summer months concerts and ballets are held here in one of the chambers as
the accustics are excellent. It is really amazing to think that
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Marbella
Literally
meaning the beautiful sea, stretches out like a shining jewel along the western
part of the Costa del Sol, in front of a bay whose crystal clear waters have
conferred a sense of timeless beauty upon this Mediterranean resort.
Even
if this lovely Andalusían coastal town conjures up one of the most stereotyped
images of a tourist resort, it should be pointed out that Marbella is a class
resort above other resorts in Spain and beyond. Situated between the open
sea and the Sierra Blanca, Marbella has an excellent Mediterrenean climate which
not only fosters the growth of green and luxuriant flora but more importantly,
encourages tourists and visitors to spend long holidays in this fabulous
environment. First class accomodation facilities, three harbours for
pleasure boats and yachts, an infinate variety of sports facilities (including a
large number of excellent gof courses) as well as the local bars, discoteques
and the tasty local cuisine all contribute to make Marbella one of the best
tourist resorts in modern Spain.
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The
vast coastal front of Marbella stretches for about 28 kilometres, between
Cabopino and Puerto Banús, the splendid beaches of fine golden sand which slope
gently down to the sea.
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The
urban layout of Marbella blends the typical characteristics of Andalusían towns,
with the salient features of tourist facilities built here during the 1970's and
the 1980's, such as the holiday villages, luxury hotels and apartments.
This mixture of architectural styles produces a pleasing effect upon the eye - a
magical setting whose effect is heightened by the turquiose waters of the sea,
its green gardens, and an abundence of palm trees and the stern yet protective
outline of the Sierra Blanca.
Among
the features of particular interest to tourists as the Villa de Río Verde,
an
important example of Roman architecture which contains a beautiful mosaic floor,
the ruins of the town walls, dating back to the time of the Arab domination and
the ruins of the castle (dating back to the same period), which has round corner
towers, walls and turreted towers. The simple elegance of the Plaza de los
Naranjos which contains a beautiful fountain, is another noteworthy feature of
the town. The plaza is lined with dazzling white buildings, (including
the 16th century Town Hall, whose Chapter house contains a Mudéjar ceiling),
and has numerous orange trees dotted around it. There is also a small well
laid out Civic Museum which contains exhibits dating back to the Neolithic era,
Roman artifacts found in the centres and villas around the district and pieces
dating back to Visigoth and Arab periods. The museum also contains works
by contempory artists. Also to be seen in the town are some 16th century
buildings.
The
first settlements in the area date back to the Palaeolithic era, although the
locality did not become a thriving town in its own right until the time of the
Roman domination, after having previously been inhabited by the Phoenicians, the
Carthaginians, the Greeks and seamen from all corners of the globe. Close
to the site of the present day town, the Romans founded the centres of Salduba
and Silniana; under Arab domination the location became an important military
and defensive stronghold. Later in 1485, under the rule of the Catholic
Kings, Marbella regained its status as a town. The origins of its modern
development can be traced back to the 18th and 19th century when the town
developed steadily as a result of considerable mineral resources mined at the
nearby Sierra Blanca. In more recent times, the decline of its mining and
iron and steel industries has been counter balanced by a rapid growth in tourism
and its related industries.
the
white towns
Mountain
roads in the Serrania de Ronda are well sign posted and in reasonable condition
but in order to make the most of your day out, try not to be too over ambicious
with your distances. Spend some of the time on foot instead, trying short
hikes and exploring the villages.
Much
of the hiking country in this area is designated nature reserve and permits are
needed from the Agencia de Medio Ambiente to walk here. Permits can be
picked up in Grazalema.
Scenic
Drive 1: Ronda-Cueva de la Pilata-Gaucin-Casares-Manilva: This route covers
the eastern Serrania de Ronda with a detour to see the prehistroric rock
paintings in the Cueva de la Pileta. Drive through Ronda and take
the turn-off to Benoján and from there, follow the signs to the
cave. Inside the cave are primitive rock paintings of animals that
roamed this area in 25,000BC, made all the more atmospheric by the fact
that there is no lighting and the one hour tour is conducted by lantern.
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Continue
south to Jimena de Libár, a village overlooked by the remains of a Moorish
castle. At the junction with the C341, turn right and follow the signs for
Gaucín, 19km away. Gaucín is one of the most beautiful of the White
Towns, spilling over the saddle of a hill dominated by a Moorish fortress.
The views down over the coastal plain to Gibraltar a2nd Morroco are breathtaking.
While there is little of historic interest in the town, it is a pleasant place
to wander round and to stop in for a drink.
At
the western end of the village, an unnumbered road slopes steeply downward, the
left fork leading to Casares, another immaculate pueblo suspended from a
hillside beneath its castle. Casares allegedly takes its name from Julius
Ceasar, who used to favour the sulphuric springs down the mountainside outside
Manilva. The spa is ruined now but the strange smelling water continues to
gush out.
Scenic
Drive 2: Ronda-Grazalema-Zahara de la Sierra- Ronda: Take the C339 from the
coast road just beyond Marbella and follow the signs to Ronda, a spectacular
drive which takes about an hour. Cross through Ronda and continue on the
C344 until the left turn to Grazalema, a futher 13km.
Grazalema
is a sleepy, little village that appears to be suspended from a sheer cliff face
in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Parque Natural. Grazalema is the
wettest spot in Spain, the mountains trapping cool air from the sea, and it is
this high altitude combined with frequent rainfall that sustains the rare
pinsapo fir, a tree which grows only in this area.
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Many
people use Grazalema as a starting point for their hikes in the pinsapo
forests and the sun-dappled cork oak woods. The village's main
square is usually busy with walkers and old people sitting under the shade
of maple trees to observe the scene. The village is also famous for
its hand woven blankets and a couple of shops around the square sell the
soft woollen products of a small factory outside the town. In the
peaceful back streets, colourful window boxes provide a contrast against
the white walls; restaurantes serve local specialities like wild trout
stuffed with mountain ham, and onion soup with cheese and walnuts.
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From
Grazalema, continue up through the valley to turn off for the CA531, signposted
Zahara and Puerto de las Palomas. This breathtakind mountain pass is one
of the
highest in Andalucía and weaves its way up the side of a sheer rock face
through the pinsapo forest. The views from the top at 1350m are awe-inspiring,
rugged mountains with green, wooded valleys in between them and dusty, golden
fields rolling away on the plain to the western horizon. Golden eagles and
griffon vultures wheel overhead. A trail in the left marks the beginning
of the Itinerario del Pinsapar, the walking path through the pinsapo forest.
With a permit it is possible follow the path for an hour or so, although the
full length of the trail takes four hours and ends in nearby Benamahoma.
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