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Jaén
is probably best known for its abundance of olive trees which dominate the
landscape and punctuate the horizon, interspersed by stark white-washed farms
and houses against a deep orange backdrop; the colour of the soil. This province
is the world's leading producer of olives and olive oil. Little wonder that it
is also the venue for the world's largest trade fair devoted to this
quintessentially Mediterranean crop which takes place in Jaen city during the first week of
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The
landscape of Jaen province is expansive, unspoilt and very beautiful. The small
towns boast numerous magnificent Renaissance buildings - exuberant palaces,
richly endowed churches and stately public squares. Some of the towns and
villages worth visiting here include Baeza and Ubeda.
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The
Despenaperros Pass, a picturesque area where bandits hid and which
inspired many romantic paintings, forms the natural boundry between the
Castillian and Andalusian plains. Here we begin to hear the musical
Andalusian accent. |
Jaen
In the middle of this
sweet olive-scented area we find its capital, Jaen, famous for its mines which
date back to the Roman and Carthinian periods.
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It is guarded by the
theatrical Castillo de Santa Catalina, an Arab fortress rebuilt by Christian
conquerer, Ferdinand III. Spains
major olive-producing town sits on an undulating plain covered with olive trees
at the foot of the Santa Catalina hill, surrounded by the mountainous landscapes
of the Sierra de Jabalcuz. |

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The town was known to the Moors as Geen, and it
has praises sung by reknown poets such as Antonio Machado and Miguel Hernandez.
Jaén posseses a rich artistic and cultural heritage, as witnessed by the
vestiges of its Moorish castle and its numerous Renaissance buildings. To
soak up the atmosphere of Jaén it is best to stroll through its varied
districts such as La Magdelena, with its golden stone churches and Moorish
atmosphere; San Juan, lively at night with its plentiful tapas bars; and Santa
Maria, home to the towns most impressive buildings. Jaén is full of contrasts,
with old monuments standing alongside elegant Renaissance palaces (Palacio de
los Vilches, Palacio de los Velez and Palacio de los Uribes), where the old town
sits proudly next to the new, and where its modern shopping streets converge on
an attractive park.
One particular monument to visit is the
Cathedral, one of the most famous examples of Spanish Renaissance art. It
was built in the XVI century and work continued throughout the XVII especially on
the facade which, thanks to reliefs and sculpures by Baroque artisits, takes on
the shape of an immense golden altarpiece. The Cathedral possesses great
artistic riches, especially the choir stalls, the most valuable is the Santa Faz
which according to tradition was the cloth used by Veronica to wipe Christs face,
leaving His image on the cloth. The Santa Faz is shown every year during
Easter and is certainly an event which adds colour to Jaén.
Jaén
has been inhabited since the Paleolithic Era. Following the Roman conquest
under Publius Cornelius Scipio in 207 BC it received the name of Aurigi until,
according to legend, it was evangelised by Euphrasius, one of the 70 male
apostles. In 712 the town was occupied by the Moors and then reconquered
in 1246 by Fernando III the Saint who turned Jaén into a settlement of
strategic importance in his struggle to liberate Andalucía from Moorish
control. The seat of the bishopric was transfered here at about the same
time, resulting in numerous privileges for the town which were to enhance its
economic situation.
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Ubeda and Baeza, only a
few kilometres apart, are two important towns for Spanish Renaissance art and
the opening of one of the most beautiful ecological and natural areas in Spain,
the Sierra de Cazorla.
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Ubeda
The most densly
populated of the two, features a unique monumental complex: the Iglesia San
Salvador stand in the square, one of the principal Renaissance works by
Vandelvira. Apart from its monumental facade, the sacristy houses a
collection of Flemish trip-tychs. |

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The XIII century Iglesia de Santa Maria
de los Reales Alcazares was re-built in different styles. Next to it the
National Parador was set up in a XVI century palace. Of the same period,
there is the Casa de las Cadenas, the Iglesia de San Pablo, The Capilla de
Camarero Vago, San Nicholas, La Casa de los Manueles, la Casa de los Torres, the
Palacio de los Lobos, not to mention the walls, towers and doorways that make
Ubeda a place not to be missed during your Andalucian tour.
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baeza Just as rich in
monuments as Ubeda but perhaps generally speaking more appealing, Baeza lies
within a smaller, more characteristic area. The Roman Baeita, which became
the Visigothic capital of the Taifa kingdom, reached its peak in the XVI century
and like its twin town Ubeda, it is an essential landmark of Renaissance art.
One is overcome by the details of palace, churches, convents, arches, fountains
and walls. It is worth spending some time in front of the cathedral, the
town hall, the old university or the prison. But most of all the complete
harmony of this town will always be remembered; as Antonio Machado, the
poet who taught there, once said "Baeza, I will dream of you when I can no
longer see you"
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Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and
Las Villas This is Spains
largest nature park, with a total surface of 214,000 hectares. Located in
eastern Jaén province, it connects the Sierra Morena and the Subbetica mountain
ranges and overlooks the Guadalquivir River basin. The parks main
attraction is its abundant wildlife, including wild goat, moufflon, fallow deer,
red deer, wild boar, rabbit and hare. There are preditory animals such as the
fox, genet, stone marten, wild cat, badger, polecat, weasel, and otter.
More than 100 species of birds make their nests in the park, such as the griffon
vulture, the short-toed eagle, the booted eagle amd the golden eagle.
Nocturnal preditors include the barn owl, tawny owl and eagle owl. The vast
forests of this nature park are home to the Laricot pine, bordeaux pine, scarlet
oak, wild olive and juniper.
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Just south west of
the town lies the Sierra de Cazorla where you can go on horse treks, mountain
bike expeditions, four wheel drive tours, canoeing, environmental study
activities and more... |
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The Parador de Cazorla is situated at the heart of the
park and if you visit during April you can take part in one of Andalucías
largest Romerias to the shrine of Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza.
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