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Granada, two hours drive northeast of Málaga, the city of Granada is dominated by the Alhambra, arguably the most exciting, sensual and romantic of all European monuments, set against a fairytale backdrop of the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It was the palace-fortress of the Nasrid Sultans, rulers of the last Spanish Moorish kingdom and in its construction Moorish art reached a spectacular and serene climax. But the building seems to go further than this, revealing something of the whole brilliance and spirit of Moorish life and culture.
Granada is significant to Andalusian history in that it was the last of the Moorish kingdoms to surrender to Los Reyes Catolicos. The Moors had ruled the city since 711AD and while other kingdoms in al-Andaluz were falling to the advancing Christian armies throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, Granada had resisted. But the dynamic marriage of Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabelle of Castile (Los Reyes Catolicos) in 1479 and the vast power that it produced proved too much for the Moors. In 1491 the Los Reyes Catolicos marched on the city with an enormous army, holding it under seige for 7 months until Boabdil, the last Moorish king, handed over the keys to the city in January 1492, the same year that Christopher Columbus sailed to the West Indies. The Christian conquest of the Arabs affected the spirit in the same way as the contempory adventure of the discovery of new lands. Therefore we can understand why the Catholic Monarchs, who had completed the historical unification and laid down the foundation of a modern state now open to the discovery of the new world, symbolically chose Granada as their base. Following their example, families and Christian institutes filled Granada with splendid monuments which are only surpassed by the existence of the Alhambra.
The alhambra Known as the greatest jewel created by man, the name Alhambra comes from an Arabic root which means "red or crimson castle", perhaps due to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold. But there is another more poetic version, evoked by the Moslem analysts who speak of the construction of the Alhambra fortress "by the light of torches", the reflections of which gave the walls their particular coloration. Created originally for military purposes, the Alhambra was an alcazaba (fortress), an alcázar (palace) and a small medina (city), all in one. This triple character helps to explain many distinctive features of the monument.
The founder of the dynasty, Muhammed Al-Ahmar, began with the restoration of the old fortress. His work was completed by his son Muhammed II, whose immediate successors continued with the repairs. The construction of the palaces (called Casa Real Vieja, "old Royal House or Palace") dates back to the 14th century and is the work of two great kings: Yusuf I and Muhammed V. To the first we owe, among others, the Cuarto de Comares (Chamber of Comares), the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice), the Baths and some towers. His son, Muhammed V, completed the beautification of the palaces with the Cuarto de los Leones (Chamber of the Lions), as well as other rooms and fortifications.
The Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand and Isabelle) conquered the city of Granada. Later, various structures were built for prominent civilians also military garrisons, a church and a Franciscan monastery. Emperor Charles V, who spent several months in Granada, began the construction of the palace which bears his name and made some alterations to the interior buildings. These measures were to cause interminable controversy often motivated by political agendas. The remaining Austrian kings did not forget the monument and have left their own more discrete impressions on it. During the 18th century and part of the 19th, the Alhambra fell into neglect and was to see its salons converted into dungheaps and taverns, occupied by thieves and beggars. "Thus bats defile abandoned castles, and the reality of Spanish criminals and beggars destroy the illusion of this fairy palace of the Moors;" writes Richard Ford. As the crowning blow, Napoleon's troops, masters of Granada from 1808 until 1812, were to convert the palaces into barracks. During one retreat they mined the towers and blew up part of them. Two of them, the Torre de Siete Suelos and the Torre de Agua were left in ruins. And so the incredible neglect continued, until 1870 when the Alhambra was declared a national monument. Travellers and romantic artists of all countries had rallied against those who scorned the most beautiful of their monuments. Since that date and up to now, the Alhambra, protected, restored, cared for and even improved, has been preserved for the pleasure and admiration of all. Alcazaba This is the oldest part of the Alhambra, reconstructed upon the ruins of a castle in the 9th century. The most solid towers are those of the Homenaje situated to the south, and the Quebrada at the northeast angle. However all are surpassed by the impressive Torre de la Vela. Its bell is rung on special festive occasions by young girls in the hope of warding off spinsterhood - dated though this sounds these days! This is the tallest tower of the walled enclosure, and the panorama seen from here extends towards unlimited horizons. Its silhouette is a significant symbol to the people of Granada. At the entrance of the Alcazaba is the delightful Jardín de los Adarves, also called Jardin de los Poetas. From its battlements our gaze is drawn to the towers of the hill in the foreground. They are the Torres Bermejas (red or crimson towers), the "castle of great worth" of a famous border ballad. Their bewitching name is evoked in the music of Albéniz or Joaquín Rodrigo. La Casa Real (The royal house or palace) This is comprised of several palace groups with a series of courts and structures surrounding them which were born out of transitory or ornamental necessity. Since the 16th century these Nasrite alcázares (palaces) have been designated the Casa Real Vieja (Old Royal House) in order to distinguish them from the Christian buildings. The Alhambra contains the three divisions usually found in a Moslem palace, including a reception salon and the royal apartments. The Chamber of the Lion, this spectacular chamber is the work of Muhammed V and illustrates the most beautiful possibilities of Granada Moslem art. Throughout this chamber a subtle air of femininity and daintiness is sensed, in keeping with the function of these private apartments, devoted to the placid enjoyment of home and family life.
Four large halls border the courtyard. The first, entering from the Court of the Myrtles, is the Sala de los Mozárabes, whose name is perhaps derived from the three stalactite arches which form the entrance to the Court of the Lions. To the south is the Sala de Abencerrajes, famous in legend with a gateway decorated with lazo (ornamental knots). Light penetrates the hall through 16 graceful fretwork windows. On the east side is the Sala de los Reyes which is unusual and resembles a theatrical set, divided in three sections which correspond to three lovely porticos, separated by double arches of mozárabes (stalactites). North of the Court of the Lions is the Sala de las Dos Hermanas, so called because of the two large marble flagstones flanking the central fountain and spout. The adjoining hall is the Sala de los Ajimeces with two balconies overlooking the Garden of Daraxa. Between these two balconies is the Mirador de Daraxa, dressing room and bedroom of the Sultana and a delightful retreat in this secluded section of the palace, in the style of a bay window or mirador. The last hall gives access to the Peinador de la Reina, also called the Tocador. An open gallery and an airy little tower, it was once designed as the residence of the Empress Isabel and later of Isabel of Parma. Some restored frescoes portray scenes of Charles V's expedition to La Goleta. In the Christian Alhambra within the Alhambra enclosure there are also monuments which are exclusively Western. For example, in the Jardines de los Mártires there was once a monastery of the barefoot Carmelite order. The Church of St Mary is built upon the site where the royal Mosque formerly stood. The Monastery of St Francis, which is now a parador, was erected upon an Arab palace and has the additional merit and sentimental value of having housed the temporary sepulchre of the Catholic Monarchs - Ferdinand and Isabelle, until their transfer to the Capilla Real.
Generalife of Granada The word 'Generalife' has been translated as "garden of paradise," "orchard" or "garden of feasts". After the city was conquered, the Generalife was granted by the Catholic Monarchs to the Granada Venegas family. The promenade leads to the Patio de la Acequia which is the most celebrated spot and the heart and soul of the palace grounds. On the western side there is a gallery of 18 arches. The northern portico is called the Mirador and has five arches in front, slender and stylised and three behind made of marble with stalactite capitals. Through the north portico is the Patio de los Cipreses, with a pool in the centre. The distribution of the small ponds is charming with their frames of oleander and myrtle. A stone step leads to the Upper Gardens which were once olive groves and today boast a handsome esplanade and modern gardens. Here is the unusual stairway with its cascading waterfalls which was described by Navagiero as early as the 16th century. The stairway leads to a modern edifice of several stories. At the far end is the large open air stage where the annual International Festival of Music and Dance is performed. El
Albaicín The
mirador of Saint Nicolas, with its 16th century church. From this
vantange point we can see a fantastic viev over the whole of Granada and the
Alhambra. The
Church of San Nicolás is well worth the steep hike through the Albaicin to
marvel at the view of the Alhambra and the Generalife with the Sierra Nevada
backdrop. Bill Clinton recently re-visited this spot whilst on a trip to Spain
as apparently he had been there once in his student days and had never forgotten
the magnificent vista. Nearby is the Church of San Salvador located on the site
of the Great Mosque of Granada with a courtyard and Arab font whilst almost
directly in front is the church of San Juan de los Reyes still with its
original minaret dating from the Nasrids in the 13th century.
Just
further on up the hill we come to the district known as Sacremonte.
Granadas gypsies formerly lived in the caves that honeycomb the hillside.
In the past travellers would go there to enjoy the spontanious flamenco parties,
but today most of the gypsies have moved away and touristy flamenco shows are
sometimes still performed here. Sitting
on top of the hill is the Abbey of Sacromonte, a Benedictine monestry.
The ashes of St Cecilio, Granadas patron saint are kept inside.
There is also a special omellette called the tortilla sacromonte which is
said to have been invented by the Monks.
THE ROYAL CHAPEL Located in the Alcaiceria, a former Moorish silk market in the city centre, which is still a great place to explore along the bazaar shops, the Royal Chapel is an impressive Gothic structure with a renaissance altar. With the wish to be buried in Granada the Catholic Kings ordered the Royal chapel to be built in the city that had given them so much glory and which they made their base, and was built between 1506 and 1521.
We can also find here Isabelles sceptre and crown, Ferdinands sword as
well as their army banners. Also a silver jewellery box that was handed full of
gold coins, to Columbus by Isabelle to finance his expeditions.
Palacio
de la Madraza situated
next to the Catedral. Founded by Yusuf I, This was originally an Arab university.
The building later became the city hall where Granadas first town council
was set up.
The land for this monastery, situated just outside the capital, was donated in 1513 by the Grand Capital Fernando de Gonzalez. The monks didn't think that the site given was suitable and wanted to move. The head monk gave his approval and upon the same hillside but further down and closer to the city, with everything but the licenses they started to build the new monastary. Three years later with nothing built other than the sleeping cells and the chapel the monks moved in. And slowly over the next 300 years they went on completing the monestary in Baroque style. The monks lived here until 1835 when with the general revolution that Spain was living through, the Junta of Granada ordered the closure of all convents and monasteries in the province. Sierra Nevada The province of Granada is dominated by Spain's highest mountain peaks, the Sierra Nevada. When you've exhausted the magnificent city of Granada there are countless of other possibilities, perhaps most enticing, the hikes of the Sierra Nevada's lower southern slopes, known as Las Alpujarras. Spains higest mountain range, the Sierra Nevada stretches from east to west between Granada and the Costa del Sol. Rugged and remote, the high peaks of Veleta (3470m) and Mulhacen (3481m) are snowcapped for much of the year and offer skiing from November until late May. During the rest of the year the Sierra Nevada nature park offers the walker endless opportinities. The desolate upper slopes of Mt. Mulhacen at an altitude of well over 3000m give the impression of being in a lunar landscape. There are two routes into the mountains. The fast Veleta road from Granada is Europes highest mountain road. From the south, a scenic but serpentine road climbs up through the Alpujarras, the magnificent foothills.
Considerable sums were invested in improving the resorts facilities for the 1995 season, when the world downhill championships were held there. Which brought new faster lifts, night time illumination of the El Rio piste and a general facelift for the village. Everything the skier needs from equiptment to ski tuition can be arranged in the resort. Las Alpujarras The southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a series of valleys known as Las Alpujarras, are a revelation. Scored by long, sheltered valleys and occasional gorges, torrents gushing down from the snowy peaks of the Sierra have cut deep ravines in the soft rock and the lower slopes are brilliant green with crops growing in fertile deposits. As the road climbs, olive groves give way to oak, pine and chestnut forests. A distinctive feature of the area is the hill terraces, possibly started by the early Ibero-Celt settlers 2000 years ago. When the Moors lost Granada to the Catholic Kings, they were allowed to settle in Las Alpujarras and for a while the area had a strong Muslim population. The Moors were eventually expelled in 1568 and Christian peasants from Galicia were moved here, which is how some villages and families come to have Galician names today. Las Alpujarras has languished in relative poverty, reviving only recently with the growth in ecotourism. From the coast or from Granada a comfortable days drive takes in Lanjaron, Orgiva, Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira before heading up to Trevelez, the highest village in Spain. The astonishingly clear air and stunning views make it tempting to stay longer and the area is full of hikers and mountain bikers.
The Veleta summit - July and August are the only months when the highest mountain road in Spain is passable by car. This twisting dirt track heads over the summit of Veleta, and keen hikers can walk the trail when the snow has cleared, starting from the parador outside the village. The treck is technically easy but nonetheless arduous. Wildlife is abundant and the views are breathtaking, with the Atlas mountains of Morocco visible on a clear day. All sorts of outdoor activities are arranged in the villages in summer, including hand-gliding, mountain biking, horse riding, archery and tennis. One of the most impressive sights in summer is the brilliantly coloured paragliders descending from the mountain like a flock of exotic birds. Mountain bikers can try out some exciting terrain here; the Borreguiles gondola lift runs all summer, transporting bikes and riders to a network of marked trails, graded according to difficulty. Costa Tropical Although not nearly so known for its coastline as its neighbouring province, Málaga, Granada is similarly picturesque for its beachside. The Costa Tropical has sandy beaches and hidden coves. The town of Almuñecar is becoming increasingly popular with tourists.
The sight of sugar cane plantations and all types of fruit, confirm the the origin of the name Costa Tropical. |         |
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