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Once the world centre for art, culture and learning, Córdoba is an area of cultural, natural and historic interest. After travelling through hundreds of thousands of olive trees, the Sierras Subbeticas specially rich hunting grounds, and to the south explore many of Spains unspoilt famous white villages,  we reach the city of Córdoba, which is also the capital city of the province and is one of the few cities left in the world still characterized by its tremendous spirit.

Córdobas capital has a population of around 300,000, almost half of the population of the whole province of Córdoba.  It is one of the Spains most visited cities by tourists, which is owed, without doubt, to its past history and patromony.

Córdoda lies on a sharp bend of the river Guadalquivir which divides the city into 2 parts, and which flows slowly westward towards Sevilla.  At one time the river at this point was completely navegable just as it is today in Sevilla. Through the province towns have grown up around crossing points on the river. Montoro, sitting in the hills overlooking the stone bridge Puente de la Donadas, it is said the bridge, which took 50 years to build, was only finished because the townsfolk sold their jewellery to raise capital.

Founded by the Carthaginians, conquered by the Romans and invaded by the Goths, it still has preserved, despite the passing of time, the spiritual characteristics of these races.  Although only a few Roman remains still stand, the mythical names of Seneca etc. live on.

The heart of the city is the old jewish quarter, situated to the west of the Mezquita.  The jews arrived in Córdoba before the Arabs and soon set up a commercial centre and centre for learning.  Upon the arrival of the Moors they remained living in harmony, with the reconquest by King Ferdinand III in 1236 the jewish quarter maintained its standing mainly due to the prestigious academic studies for which it had become reknown.  However bit by bit daily life became more difficult for the jews, with a growing racial hate towards them.  In the middle of the 13^th century an order was sent to destroy their synagogue and they were obligated to pay taxes for the maintainance of the Catholic Church, they were held blame for any epedemic or calamity that hit the town.  In 1492 Queen Isabella ordered their expulsion from Spain. A walk around this area gives the impression that nothing has changed since the 10^th century.  Wrought ironwork decorates cobbled streets too narrow for cars and workshops where the silversmiths create fine jewellery can be found here.  

 After the invasion of the Moors, in 711, it became the capital of a vast emirate which continued to grow with the help of a succession of Emirs. During the 10th century "The Iron Age" for the rest of Central and Northern Europe, Córdoba continued to boom and became the most densely populated and civilised city in the West, only comparable to the prosperous city of Constantinople.  Its Mosque became the richest and most splendid Islamic monument.  Later another 300 mosques, luxury palaces, baths, sewer systems followed. Córdobas streets were lit by lamp light 700 years before those of London or Paris. This material wealth was accompanied by intellectual wealth.

THE PLAZA DE LA CORREDERA A must for visitors due to its beautiful 18^th century design with its 17^th century arcaded square and daily market. For centuries it was an important meeting place in which people would come to worship, fiestas were held, executions, markets and until well into the 19^th century bullfights.  The Calleja del Toril still exists, a narrow alley way where they used to enclose the bulls.

Puente Romana   The river here in the city is spanned by a Roman bridge, with sixteen fabulous arches, linking the 14^th century Torre de la Calahorra and the old town. Built by the Roman Emperor Augusto, and under went major reconstruction during the Muslim era.  To the right we can see a river mill of Roman origin.  In the middle of the bridge there is a small altar with the image of San Rafael inside.  It was placed there in 1651 in remembrance of St Raphael as it was thought that due to the townsfolks devotion of their patron saint the town was saved from a great epidemic.  It is usually adorned with flowers or candles as testiment to popular devotion, many Cordovans remove their hat when passing it.

The river bed which in some parts is wide enough for some garden areas and little islands dwelt by birds was long ago used to move flour mills, of which some remains can still be seen.  The so called Molino de la Albolafia, just past the Roman bridge, which had been a mill that has appeared on Cordovan seals and other city emblems since the 13^th century is believed to have been built by the Romans.  Abd-al-Rahman II ordered a hugh chain pump to be made in order to take water up to the palace garden, but Isabella the Catholic queen had it taken down so as to avoid its squeaking noise.   

The Torre de la Calahorra, built by the Arabs as a means of defence.  Originally  there were two towers united by an archway, later a third tower was added.  Over the centuries the tower has had many functions, a prison, a school, and a library.  Today it is an excellent museum in which one can learn about Córboba  and its culture over the ages.

The Mosque The Mezquita was built by Abd ar-Rahman I on the site of a former Visigoth church, itself situated on top af a Roman temple.  Started in 736, the original mosque was completed in 796. In the 9th century, Córdoba became a place of pilgrimage and it was in the 10th century when Córdoba reached its zenith under a new emir, Abd ar-Rahman 111 who was one of the great rulers of Islamic history. At this time Córdoba was one of the largest, most prosperous cities of Europe, outshining Byzantium and Baghdad in science, culture and the arts. The development of the Great Mosque paralleled these new heights of splendour.

Today the Mezquita as it is known can be visited throughout the year. The approach is via the Patio de los Naranjos, a classic Islamic ablutions courtyard which preserves both its orange trees and fountains. When the mosque was used for Moslem prayer, all nineteen naves were open to this courtyard allowing the rows of interior columns to appear like an extension of the trees with brilliant shafts of sunlight filtering through.

The columns, some 580 in total, come from Roman and Visigothic churches, at first glimpse are immensely exciting. The architect introduced another, horseshoe-shaped arch above the lower pillars. A second and purely aesthetic innovation was to alternate brick and stone in the arches, creating the red and white striped pattern which gives a unity and distinctive character to the whole design. Said to represent the palm trees at a desert oasis.

Inside the Mosque we find the octagonal Mirhab chamber added in the 10th century.  This traditionally had two functions in Islamic worship, first it indicated the direction of Mecca (therefore prayer) and it also amplified the words of the Imam, the prayer leader. At Córdoba it is particularly magnificent. The shell-shaped ceiling is carved from a single block of marble and the chambers on either side are decorated with exquisite brilliantly coloured mosaics in gold, red and green, a gift from the Byzantine emperor Micephoras Phocas II.

In the centre of the Mosque squats a Renaissance cathedral, seemingly out of place, it was added in 1523 by Charles V, who later regretted tampering with the Mosques simple beauty. The cathedral is worth visiting for its mahogany choir stalls, carved by Pedro Duque Cornejo. The Capilla de Villaviciosa built by Moorish craftsmen in 1377 is an elaborate example of Mudejar architecture.

Around the Mezquita, the narrow, whitewashed streets are a riot of colour in summer, scarlet and pink geramiums cascading from every balcony.  During the month of May it has a competition to see who has the best balcony.  Northeast of the Mezquita, the Callejon de los Flores is one of the most beautiful streets in Córdoba. 

Medina Azahara  Was a palace-city, which we can find just outside Córdoba capital. It was built in the 10th century for Caliph Abd al Rahman III, who named it after his favourite wife, Azahara.  He spared no expense in its construction, employing more than 15,000 mules, 4,000 camels and 10,000 workers to bring building materials from North Africa and other parts of Andalucía.

Marble, ebony, jasper and alabaster once adorned its many halls, and it is believed that shimmering pools of quicksilver added lustre. Unfortunately, the glory was short-lived.  The palace was sacked by Berber invaders in 1010 and over subsequent centuries it was ransacked for its building materials.  Now, the ruins give only a glimpse of its former splender - a Moorish main hall, for instance, decorated with marble carvings, still with its fine ceiling of carved wood.  Although only little more than 10% of the area once covered by the city remains, it is still possible to imagine what this sumptuous city must have been like.