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The sea has always played an important role in
the history of Cadiz. Cadiz is one of the oldest cities in the west, where
trading between the Phoenician ports of Tyre and Sidon took place. The Phoenician Gadir became Carthaginian and then Roman
Gades. It later fell to the Arab invaders after the battle of Guadalete in
711 and was finally conquered by Alfonso X in 1262.
Today Cadiz is a great transatlantic port, with
ships sailing regularly to Barcelona, the Canary Islands and South America. It is a social and cultural city with important
tourist resources around the actual city and province.
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There are
not many ancient relics to see in the city of Cadiz itself, as many were
destroyed in wars. We have to go to Archaeological Museum to see some
native Turdatanos, Phoenician and Carthaginian relics. |
However
Cadiz has never been excavated systematically and many new remains are
discovered when building new structures. The cities best artistic
treasures are to be found in the Museum of Fine Arts which is one of the richest
and most interesting art galleries in the Andalucian region.
Despite its lack of monuments in its
capital, the province of Cadiz has much more to offer.....
The hills of
Cádiz should not be overlooked. The - Ruta de Los Pueblos Blancos
- Route of the White Villages is a surprising journey through an
amazing world with places like Arcos de la Frontera, Bornos, Grazalema, Ubrique
(specialized in leather craftsmanship), El Bosque, Olvera, Vejer de la Frontera
and Zahara ... There are abundant marshy terrains and only stand out at the
horizon the salt pyramids of the San Fernanado and the Puertos salt mines, the
white country houses and the villages.
Beyond the
moutains, the verdant countryside opens out into a wide chequerboard of plains,
golden with wheat and sunflowers.
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Jerez de la Frontera
Just
20km inland from the coast, Jerez de la Frontera is another Andalusian village
characterised by its own special myth. While in Ronda it is bullfighting,
here it is the famous Carthusian horses and its famous sherry. The two go
hand in hand: wealthy wine growers who have lived in the area for generations
set up vast country estates and were quick to adopt country persuits like
breeding throrough breds to match their lifestyle. Jerez horses and wine
society is notorious among Andalucians for its airs and graces. |

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Over 200 sherry bodegas
(wine cellars) are
located here and visitors can tour the cool, musty cellars of the famous
producers. Twice a year, the whole town turns out for events which have reached
international acclaim: the Jerez Horse Fair and the Wine Harvest. In May
stock farmers bring out their very best for a week of haute ecole dressage
displays, vaquera (the unique Andalucian dressage), jumping, carriage driving
and thorough bred showing, accompanied by the usual consumption of jerez and
tapas, bullfighting and flamenco dancing. In September, the wine harvest takes
place, with similar celebration as the grapes are crushed. Its
art entwines intself around Andalucian mythology. Its magnificent
Colegiate church acts as the setting for the popular annual wine-harvest
festivals. The monastery is only a few kilometres away from the centre,
with its Gothic cloister; it is where the famous Carthusian horses were kept,
and is where the annual fair is held.
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Many of the bodegas close down in August but for
the rest of the year tours can be arranged on most days.
Booking is essential. Each bodega has a tradition of celebrity autographs
on its dusty old barrels and visitors to Gonzalez Byass, for example, will spot
the signatures of General Franco and Orson Wells.
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The tours demonstrate
the sherry and brandy making process and end with a tasting, based in the saying
"if you dont have one copa (glass) by eleven, you must have eleven
by one". The
wine is aerated by pouring it with a flourish from heights of one metre or more
into tiny glasses called copitas.
The Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art is
located next to a 19th century palace in a beautiful park, and is regarded as
one of the top dressage schools in the world. The Spanish thorough bred is
a brave, intelligent breed with graceful movements and a characteristically
long and flowing main and tail and is ideally suited to the intricate movements
of haute ecole, or High School dressage. The spectacular Sinfonia Caballo,
which the Spanish describe as a horse ballet, takes place every thursday at 12
noon and needs to be booked well in advance. Alternatively, visitors may be able
to watch
the horses in training on other weekdays and tour the stables and tack room.
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In the town of Jerez most of the major sights
are within walking distance of the Plaza de Arenal, the towns main square. |

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Like most towns in Andalucía, Jerez was once occupied by the Moors and boasts an
Alcazar. East of the Plaza de Arenal, the San Salvador or La
Colegiata Church is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles and has a
seperate bell tower. Facing the church is theBarrio de Santiago, a
fascinating maze of narrow streets that was once the gypsy quarter of the city,
hemmed in by the remnants of the old city wall. As well as the location of
several interesting Gothic churches and a small archelogical museum, this is
also the
location of the Andalusian Flamenco Foundation, housed in an 18th century
mansion. Concerts and exhibitions are staged here throughout the year and
an audio visual presentation takes place on the hour on weekday mornings
explaining the history and art of flamenco. Further north, close to the
School of Equestrian Art is the Museo de Relojes, (watch museum) of Jerez. Here
one can find a collection of over 300 antique clocks and watches, all
functioning and said to be one of Europes most important collections.
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One of the
pleasures of travelling to the town of Jerez is the countryside that we
pass on the way there. Known as the Route Of The Bull, one can see
the brave fighting specimens in their natural habitat. This is where
many famous breeders raise their bulls, preparing them for the bull ring. |
Many of the towns
in this wild country have the suffix "de la Frontera", or "of the
Frontier", which explains their sometimes unlikely positions. The
frontier in question was the edge of Moorish Andalucía in the almost 800 yearsof
Moorish rule here and these tiny tiny towns, each dominated by a fortified
castle, formed the first line of defence between the Moors and the Christian
lands beyond. Each town has a typical Moorish configuration - a tangle of
narrow streets and alleyways below the castle and small, white washed houses
opening inwards to shady patios.
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